September 3, 2010 |
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Free Classifieds ---- Boonville
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PangaeaGualala, Mendocino County, California Reviewed by William P. Meyers Jan's cousin Tyerin came to visit us from Carmel. Tyerin is an excellent cook whose has served us some truly delicious meals. There is a selection of tempting restaurants on the south Mendocino County coast; this time we decided to try Pangaea. Jan and I have eaten there before (and also under its prior owner, in its prior location in Point Arena), but it was Tyerin's first visit. We decided on Prosciutto di Parma, grilled figs, Parmigiano Reggiano & arugula ($11) for a starter. I was attracted to the idea of grilled figs. I like arugula so much I grow it at home, but my two poor fig trees get knocked back every winter and never produce figs. I don't often get excited about food, but the figs in particular were bursting with flavor and blended well with the prosciutto and parmagian cheese. We also ordered a bottle of Claiborne & Chuchill Central Coast Pinot Gris 2006. It was fine, but did not strike me as wonderful. For the main course I ordered roasted duck breast ($28), Jan chose the guinea hen ($28), and Tyerin the California halibut ($27). Having been with a couple of people who ordered the Creekstone hangar steak ($29), I would not recommend that. The duck breast was everything you would want, but in comparison to many fancy restaurants the rest of dish appeared simplistic. The carrots, chard, potatoes and beets were not made into some strange visual effect. After tasting the duck I expected them to be a healthy afterthought. Instead it was as if I was eating carrots, beets, potatoes and chard for the first time. I suppose it was that they had been picked fresh that day at Oz Farm, and somehow enhanced with flavor from being cooked with duck. They were, in a way, better than the duck, perhaps because they so exceeded my expectations. Jan's guinea hen came with polenta, bacon, caolo nero, grilled peach and gremolata. Again, as perfect as you can get. I did not know guinea hen was such a delicacy until I tasted it. Tyerin's halibut came with white corn succotash, blue lake beans and basil oil. She complemented it and the beans in particular. Halibut is a great fish, and Pangaea has been cooking it to perfection for years. We did not have any deserts, though we have had them at Pangaea in the past and they are worth getting if you crave desert. July, 2008
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